Nailing or Stapling Down an Engineered Hardwood Floor | WeShipFloors

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Nailing or Stapling Down an Engineered Hardwood Floor

Additional Tools and Material Needed:

Drill Tapping Block Compressor

Air Hose In-line Air Regulator Pneumatic Nailer/

Stapler

15 lb. Roofers Felt

NOTE: Our products are not warranted against squeaking, popping or crackling when using staple-down or nail-down installation methods. Some squeaking, popping or crackling is normal and possible when using staple-down or nail-down installation methods.  These symptoms may be aggravated in arid areas or during dry conditions.

SET UP AND USE OF PNEUMATIC STAPLERS AND NAILERS

Minor occasional noises within the flooring are inherent to all staple/nail-down installations and can change as environmental changes occur. This is not a manufacturing defect and is therefore not covered under our warranties (see warranty brochure for complete warranty coverage). You can help reduce squeaking, popping, and crackling by being sure that the subfloor is structurally sound, does not have any loose decking or joists, and is swept clean prior to installation. You should also be sure that your stapler or nailer is setting the fastener properly, not damaging the planks, and that you are using the correct nailing schedule.

When used improperly, staples or cleats can damage wood flooring. If the tool is not adjusted properly the staples/ cleats may not be positioned at the proper angle and cause blistering, peaking, squeaking, or crackling of the floor. Some models may require the use of an adapter to adjust for proper thickness. Test the tool on a piece of scrap material first - set the stapler/ nailer flush on the tongue side of the plank and install a staple/ cleat. Should the staple/cleat penetrate too deeply reduce the air pressure; if the staple/ cleat is not deep enough then increase the air pressure using an in-line regulator. The crown of the staple/ cleat should sit flush within the nail pocket to prevent damage to the flooring and to reduce squeaking. The flooring manufacturer is not responsible for damage caused by the mechanical  fasteners.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Only use manufacturer's recommended staples or cleats.

For 3/8” thick products the minimum length staple/ cleat is 1”

For "” thick products the minimum length staple/cleat is 1 !”

Read and follow the manufacturer's instructions for complete set-up and operation of equipment.

Getting Started

1. After the subfloor has been properly cleaned and prepped cover the subfloor with 15lb. asphalt felt paper. This material will help to keep the floor clean and help to retard moisture from below (there is no complete moisture barrier system for staple or nail-down applications).

2. Select a starter wall. An outside wall is best: it's most likely to be straight and square with the room. Measure out from this wall, at each end, the overall width of the plank (board width + tongue + the space needed (3/8” or "”) for expansion).

3. Snap a chalk line from these points, parallel to that wall.

4. Install the first row of starter planks along the chalk line/straightedge and secure into position with the tongue facing away from the starter wall (toward you). Drill pilot holes through the face of the plank every 6” (in the dark grain); approximately 1” from the back edge of the board and secure planks with 1” finishing nails. Countersink nails and fill with appropriate colored wood filler – remove excess filler from surface.

5. Blind nail at a 45° angle through the tongue 1”-2” from the end joints and every 6” in between along the length of the starter boards (Predrill holes to make this easier). Depending on the width of the flooring it may be necessary to do this for the first few rows prior to using a pneumatic stapler/ nailer.

NOTE: Proper alignment is critical. Misaligned starter rows can cause side and end gaps to appear in proceeding rows of flooring.

Installing the Floor

6. Continue to install the flooring making sure to nail/staple 1”-2” from the ends and every 3” – 4” thereafter. Make certain the tool is adjusted properly to ensure that the fastener is at the proper angle and is flush within the nail pocket. As you continue working across the floor try to maintain a six-inch minimum space between end joints. Randomly install different lengths to avoid a patterned appearance.

7. If needed use a tapping block to help engage the boards together until the tongue-and-groove is flush and tight and no gaps are present between adjacent planks. NOTE: Never use a rubber mallet or hammer directly on the flooring to engage the tongue-and-groove. This can damage the flooring and/or finish.

8. As you approach the end wall it may be necessary to cut the width of the last row – be sure to allow for the expansion along the end wall. Once the final cuts are made set planks into place.

9. The last few rows will need to be fastened by hand. To fasten the final planks into place, you must either manually blind nail and/or face-nail through the surface on the final planks. Drill pilot holes at a 45-degree angle to the floor and blind nail using l” finishing nails. Alternatively, drill pilot holes in the face every 6” (try to drill holes in darker portion of the wood) and install with 1” finishing nails. Countersink nails and fill with appropriate colored wood filler – remove excess filler from surface with a clean rag and proper cleaner.

Need Help?
Call 844-FLOOR11
Or 423-297-4288

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